So we bailed on Yosemite a couple of days ago in favor a finding less humid conditions in Bishop. We arrived here two days ago and have found mostly heat during the day, but phenomenal conditions when the sun goes down. This gives a small window of climbing, but allows us to rest and save skin for most the time. However when the sun goes down, it means business. Yesterday, we messed around on the Buttermilker for a bit to warm up. I got really close, but couldn't quite pull it off. As the sun went down we rounded up some pads and headed down to the Grandpa Peabody. I climbed Evilution to the lip two years ago and felt very unaccomplished just letting go of the jug at the lip. I've been trying to get back to Bishop these last few years to polish some things off and it seems as though this trip is going to be a success. After only a few goes on the full Evilution I was falling rounding the lip. After figuring out some new foot beta, I pulled onto the slab (then almost fell when my feet picked going for the jug) and diced my way to the top. I then spent 20 minutes figuring out the 50 foot slab downclimb. Scary! I was psyched to up the ante on this testpiece with the 1st(?) groundup ascent although I must say it wouldn't have been possible without a full beta rundown from friend Charlie Barrett. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the send cause everybody was spotting and it was damn near dark outside. Maybe someday...
Here's some photos of The Buttermilker:
Today was also a great day. We woke up late and at around 1 o'clock made our way up to the Bardini Boulders to climb on A Maze of Death V12. This is an amazing boulder problem first put up Dave Graham. It climbs from a perfect jug sit start through some of the best rock in Bishop and finishes on another jug. A great LINE to say the least. I almost finished this problem a few years ago, but was thwarted by a lack of strength. Today, it went down pretty fast, but not without a fair bit of screaming. My brother Giovanni and Garrett Gregor also polished off the line shortly after. I think it's also safe to guarantee a First Female Ascent of this boulder by the end of this week.
Here are some photos:
5 days of climbing left before we head to Tennessee. Lots of problems to climb and more updates to come.