Sunday, September 14, 2008

Mt. Evans

I camped out at Mt. Evans this weekend and had the opportunity to climb some new things and explore a LOT. Yesterday I climbed this problem Peasants Into Leaders V7/8 that I've had my eye on for a while. Committing and fun, and not nearly as scary as it looks. I also finished Silverback Stand V8 in a few goes and I'm psyched to try the Sit.

Today I woke up early and rolled on up to Area C, an area that I've been meaning to check out for quite some time now. All I can say is...Lots of Projects. There is a scary highball that looks unclimbed that follows a 20 foot right-facing mini-dihedral to a spectacular dyno to a jug. Amazing.
UPDATE: Apparently this crimp line I climbed today was put up by Harry Robertson a few years ago and called Broken Wing at the grade of V11/12. So I guess I have the second ascent? Nevertheless, It is a very cool line that should be climbed more often.

Here are the pics (Photos Courtesy of Connor Griffith):

Monday, September 1, 2008


Alex, G, and I spent the last few days in Rifle Mountain Park climbing sport routes. It was the first time I've seriously attempted climbing on a rope in about 3 years. None the less, I had a amazing time and got seriously re-psyched on routes. It was also a great time climbing with Daniel Woods, Dave Graham, Joe Kinder, Emily Harrington, and Colette McInerney. Awesome crew to be climbing with, psych level to the max. Alex ended up climbing her first 12d, in two tries. Super proud. G got really close on a few 13's, and finished off 5 times as many spliffs as the whole crew combined. I fell off the last move of Simply Read 5.13d (hard as all hell 13d), which is probably the coolest thing I tried on the trip. Bummed I got so close and fell, but amped that I've actually got some endurance now. Anyways, I'm psyched to return in the next few weeks to finish off some things as the temps get better. Very psyched on Dave's new climb Girl Talk 5.14c at the Bauhaus. I got the opportunity to try it a bit when it was still a project and it holds some amazing climbing. I also suprised myself by linking the whole bottom half on my second attempt. Someone mentioned that this half could be a 5.14- route on its own. Psyched!

So here's some not-so-quality images from the trip:

Dave taking down The Gayness 5.13d

Daniel in the A.M.

G on the P.M. Wakeup Schedule

And without a days rest, Alex and I headed to Mt. Evans today for some Alpine Bouldering. Alex had her eyes on a few problems and as the day progressed she narrowed her sights on Clear Blue Skies V12. A couple goes in the heat were not looking good, then the cool breeze came by for a visit. In short order, she was falling off the last move from the start on every go until she ripped a nice flapper in her finger. We'll probably end up returning this weekend so she can finish her second V12. Updates will be coming along more regularly.


Oh, and stop by The Spot this Friday for the Grand Opening of the New Wall built by Vertical Solutions. We will be setting all this week, so come by and climb on some fresh problems on a fresh new piece of terrain.