Thursday, December 18, 2008


Just thought I'd post this photo I recently got my hands on.  It was taken from Buttermilk road and shows me topping out Evilution on the Grandpa Peabody boulder.  This particular photo seems to expose just how gigantic this particular boulder is.  Thanks a bunch to Tilly Parkins for taking and sending me the photo.

I'm the little black dot halfway up the boulder if you couldn't tell.  The crux is about a body length below me.

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Off The Road...Finally!

On Oct. 30, Alex and I left boulder and we just got back home today.  We drove from CO to Texas.  Texas to Alabama.  Alabama to Texas.  Texas to Santa Rosa, CA.  Santa Rosa to Yosemite.  Yosemite to Santa Rosa.  Santa Rosa to Bishop.  Bishop to Santa Rosa.  Santa Rosa to Bishop.  Bishop to Salt Lake City.  Salt Lake to Boulder (for one night).  Boulder to Chattanooga, TN.  Chattanooga back to Boulder.  Alex is afraid of flying if anyone needs an answer to the obvious question.  She also doesn't have a driver's license which leaves 100% of the driving responsibilities up to me.  I am sick and tired of driving.

I have updated decently well over the past few weeks, but thought I would catch everyone up on the last leg of the tour.  Chattanooga for the last leg of the Triple Crown.   I only have one thing to say.  Little Rock City has the best rock and lines of any climbing area in the United States.  Hands down.  After four straight days of driving to the comp, I didn't perform nearly as well as I wanted to, but I'm inspired to return to LRC as soon as possible.  We also had the opportunity to climb in Laurel Snow outside Dayton for the two days after the comp.  Lots of potential and lots of good lines.  I walked away with ascents of Vapor Lock V11 and the 3rd ascent of Western Gold.  Western Gold is perhaps my favorite climb for the grade I've ever done.  Slopers and pinches all the way.  Props to Jimmy Webb on the 1st.  True Stunner.

Here are some pics:

Vapor Lock V11

Jimmy Webb on the 2nd Ascent of Stankins V11 (established by James Litz just a week prior)

Western Gold V11

Nic about to crush Vapor Lock...

Thursday, December 4, 2008

Alex Puccio Climbs A Maze of Death V12

On Sunday, Dec. 30, Alex finished off her fourth V12 with an ascent of A Maze of Death.  It took her 4 days of effort and she has stated that it is most definitely her hardest boulder send to date.  I was very impressed with her ascent of this line particularly with the sequence she used.  She skipped a very key left hand by putting her foot above her head to lock-off to the sidepull and then proceeded to pull both holds to her stomach while she hand-foot matched her left hand.  Many of us tried to attempt this sequence but couldn't even start to do it.  A very impressive display of raw power that you'll have to witness when the video hits the web.

Here are some pics: 

I managed to finish off my trip with sends of The Buttermilker V12 and Haroun and the Sea of Stories V11/12.  I attempted to finish Evilution Direct V11 before Thanksgiving, but couldn't quite get myself to commit to the Dyno (for me) on the slab.  This is certainly a much scarier line to the top of the boulder than Jason's original, but the holds are MUCH better.  Until now.  When I returned to Bishop after Thanksgving I learned that a key hold above the lip had broken and there wasn't much left to grab.  I tried it a few times before we left for Boulder (ground-up of course) and can definitely say that the exit is harder but there is definitely a decent hold to grab.  It now awaits a re-first ascent.

Here's a photo of me grabbing the left hand that is now broken: