Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Alex Puccio and The Last Month

Today, Alex Puccio finished off the First Female Ascent of The Marble Sit V12 in RMNP. It was her third day climbing on the problem and she most definitely hiked it. Instead of me rambling on about the send, I'll let her describe the day in her own words:

" I worked on the marble for 2 days, the first days I got it in 2 parts and the second day I fell off matching the lip 5 times in a row...... so frustrating! And then finally on the third day, today, I sent the Marble Sit. Soooooo EXCITED!!! The day I sent the Marble Sit it was about 75 degrees out, and I climbed the day before in the gym so I didn't think it was going to go. After giving it a warm up burn I tried it once more and it felt greasy, I actually just popped off the wall from my hands greasing a few times, but then all the sudden a cool breeze came through and it cooled down for a few minutes. I put on my shoes, chalked my hands and sent the problem!

This is by far the hardest boulder problem I have done yet, and I hope that girls pushing the standards in climbing will motivate and show other girls that it can be done! We are creeping up on the boys and V13 isn't far out of sight!!! =)"

So there you have it. Now we have another girl to add to the Women of V12 club. Not entirely sure how many girls are on the list, but I'm assuming it's under 10. Hopefully we'll see Angie on the list soon with another FFA in the park.

On a side note, I've kinda been taking it easy recently trying to find new psych and a new direction. This time has allowed me to realize the rapid progression in climbing recently. Now we have two V12's by girls completed in the same week, in the same state. We also have V13's being sent weekly by multiple people. I can't even keep up with the number of retardly strong climbers I meet out here in Colorado on a daily basis. I see the bar slowly rising and the only way not to fall off, is to hold on a bit harder.

That being said, the new wall being built at The Spot is absolutely AMAZING. Quite possibly the most well built, well designed cave in the country. I look forward to setting and training on it starting next week.

Also, Alex and I will be heading to Rifle tomorrow to climb some routes with DW and DG through the weekend. I have never climbed a 5.14 and I'd be psyched to add one to my tick list. I know Alex feels the same way. More updates to come...

Now here's some photos from the last month:
Alex Puccio
Alex Eyeing the Holds
Alex and The Marble Sit
Alex sending Public Execution V10 at Mt. Evans
Psyched On The Send
Andre climbing Freaks Of The Industry V13
Mayhem at the Centaur Boulder

G with Straight Hair...HAHAHA!!!


Tammy and Mike said...

Hell yeah alex! way to represent the ladies!

Jamie Emerson said...

First of all, nice work Alex. It's always great to send your project.
Secondly, since there is so much written about women climbing V12 in the post and we have have seen an advance I thought I would add some history. By my count, Alex is the 12th woman to boulder V12, the 6th America and I am sure there are more. Angie has been "on the list" since Feb., and in fact has done it twice.
Barbara Zangerl has bouldered V13 as has Josune years ago.
Just like on the mens side this year, these V12 sends are nothing new in terms of difficulty, just more people climbing at a higher level. It does seem like things are primed for a push to the next level here in America. Well done ladies!

Alex Puccio said...

Jaime :
So I didn't think there was that many girls that have done v12 and if there really is thats sick!

Just curious though, would you mind telling me the girls and the problems they did so I have that knowledge?!?

And I was also wondering what v12's angie has done. she hasn't told me yet. I mean the only thing I heard of was the v12 in europe that I thought all of you and including her called v10. And maybe Chblanke, which is v11 I thought. At least that was what Ana Burgos and the other girls called it. But please tell me if I am wrong.

Have a good one! =)

Jamie Emerson said...

I will list the 6 Americans

1.Ana Burgos: Chablanke, Sarah Sit, Mo mojo
2.Lisa Rands: Nutsa, The Mandala, Chablanke, Sarah Sit
3.Angie Payne: Chablanke, Atomic Playboy
4.Ashley Lloyd: Super Kind
5.Alex Johnson: Clear Blue Skies
6.Jody Hansen: Chablanke, Rumble in the Jungle

It is easy to question the grade of many of these problems, however, if you do that then you should turn the questioning on yourself as well, Alex.

Let's look at Chablanke, the problem you brought up, as an example. Daniel, who is short and Paul, who is tall, both have it as V12 on their scorecards. (both Lisa and Claire Bell called this problem V12, Jody says V11) If you look, by comparison, Daniel, Paul, Chad Greedy and many others have The Marble sit as V11. You, Carlo and several others say V12. I don't know what the grade for either problem is and it doesn't really matter, one way or the other. What is fundamental to my argument is that there are two grades to both problems. Since you decided to take the higher grade it would be only fair that others girls could take the high grade in comparison.

Again Alex, we both know you are very strong and I think it's really cool that you've taken the time to try hard problems outside. Keep up the good work and I am sure this is only the beginning.

Connor said...

Damn G's creepy.

Vanlu said...

wow american girls are strongers than me and my group of friends!!!
wait for you in albarracin!