The weather in Colorado has been quite strange recently. April snowstorms and now lots of rain and flurries in the Alpine during a normally drier/warmer time. Today it was Mt. Evans for me. Since I can't crimp, the park is out. And so I've been searching. In between 3 separate "snow storms" that left the crew burrowing under boulders, I spent quite a bit of time running around in the talus. I found this boulder without much effort:
I'm fairly sure it hasn't been climbed before, especially from the sit which could certainly be a very high quality 8B or harder. I was left trying the stand start today in my broken condition from an obvious good hold just within arms reach. The stand proved to be more than worthy as I was unable to get my ass up the thing after countless effort. One move, oddly difficult, and a bit scary. None-the-less, the climbing was phenomenal and left all of us scratching our heads as to why no one had either climbed or mentioned this boulder before. The rock is unlike most of the climbs at Mt. Evans as it features almost no crimps. Yes! And lots of cool pinches:
I ended the day with a quick send of the Hume Problem V9, which is a very nice climb at the far side of Area B that saw a nice send train today. Props to Hayden and Connor. I also had the pleasure of trying the Rail Project for the first time. We gave it a nice little session with the fading light and managed to scare the shit out of ourselves a bit. That boulder is BIG. Two more moves and I'll be ready to start giving legit efforts from the start after some heavy duty pad haulage. Psyched!
3 comments:
i know cam cross has put in a bunch of time on the super classy rail project and may have even been close to the link. not sure about the block in these photos, but in addition to the NCCC crew, chris shulte has put up a ton of lines in the talus at evans and may account for the line you found. who knows?
next: anyone put any time into the project on the backside of the hume boulder, facing down-canyon?
the rails may be prohibitively sloping, but now-a-days, it's hard to differentiate between what looks impossible and what actually goes.
puccio. no more greener grasses. live this plan.
where abouts is the problem in the pictures with the pinches? Looks rad!
the pinch problem behind gorillas...
we always thought the big edge at mid-height would break,
sending your head and back into the block behind you.
nice job if you finish this one...
but check your hold...its hollow.
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